shorts on the line by probably actually

today i'm excited to introduce Gail from probably actually as part of the shorts on the line sewalong!  i consider her an Oliver + S pattern expert (check out these puppet show shorts and sailboat pants), and she always adds the most beautiful details to her clothing (like the collar and stitching on her Figgy's ayashe blouse and the great leaf detail on this skirt). today she's here to share her Oliver + S sketchbook shorts. thanks, Gail!!

Hello everyone! I'm Gail from Probably Actually and I'm excited to be here today adding a pair of shorts to the line! Being boy-less myself, most of my sewing is of the little girl variety. But Rachael offered up some shorts patterns to review, and I'm such a sucker for Oliver + S that I couldn't resist trying out this boy pattern - the Sketchbook shorts. Plus, since I was sewing for someone else's kid, there was a chance these shorts might actually be worn! A gal can dream, anyway....

Since it was my first time trying the pattern, I didn't make any changes. And I'm happy to report that it's a great basic shorts pattern, exactly as written. Size 4 on a 4-year-old - no adjustments necessary.

The fabric is from an old pair of men's Gap pants that I found in my husband's reject pile. The original pants had a cool little coin pocket attached inside the front waistband, and since kids seem to like pockets (and I like an excuse to hide fun fabric inside clothing), I decided to add a similar pocket to the shorts. 

If you want to add a little pocket inside these shorts (or any other shorts or pants for that matter), it was easy to do. I removed the original pocket and used it as my pattern, but you can start with a 3 x 3.75 inch rectangle, then curve the two bottom corners (or don't for that matter, a rectangular pocket works just as well!). Then choose a fun contrast fabric, fold your fabric in half, and cut out two pocket pieces.

Choose one to be your front (shown below on the right), and fold the top edge 1/4 inch to the wrong side, then over another 1/4 inch to encase the raw edge. Edgestitch in place. Then use a serger or zig-zag stitch to finish the raw edge of the other piece, which will become the pocket back. 

Place the two pocket pieces right sides together, matching the curved edges. Pin and sew together (starting and stopping and the folded front edge) with a 1/4 seam.

Clip into the seam to make your curve nice and smooth, then turn the pocket right side out and press. Now fold the top edge of the taller side to the back by 1/2 inch so that the back and front pieces are now even. Press a crease into the back piece to create a flap, like this.

That flap will become your seam allowance when you attach the pocket. I centered my pocket at one of the front pleats and placed it about midway down the waistband.

Since my shorts were already finished, I attached my pocket by hand (just catching the inside layer of the waistband fabric) so that the stitches wouldn't show through to the front of the shorts. Place the flap inside the front waistband (the pocket will be hanging upside down and out of the shorts, as pictured) and sew in the crease. That way, when you flip the pocket over, the flap will be hidden behind the pocket and the stitches will be hidden in the crease. There you have it, your coin pocket is complete!

I lined the front pockets with the same Kokka elephants, because like I said, I love a surprise inside. 

If you're planning to use a contrast fabric inside the pockets with this pattern, please learn from my mistake and use the pattern piece labeled "pocket" for the contrast, and cut the "pocket lining" pattern piece from the main fabric. For some reason I assumed it would be the other way around, and had to cut those pieces twice - though luckily I didn't use the Kokka the first time!

The only change I might make to this pattern the next time would be omitting the pleat (I think it looks fine, I'm just not a big pleat-lover). I also noticed that his hands just barely fit in the front pockets - it wouldn't hurt if those openings were a little larger.

That said, the pattern lived up to Oliver + S' stellar reputation in every way - clear and thorough directions, lots of helpful tips and diagrams, and professional end results.

The shorts pattern consists of five pieces and was very simple to construct. It's rated "two scissors," which I think means "advanced beginner", but the shorts are certainly the simpler of the two garments included in the pattern (the other is a basic button-down shirt with two options for the collar and sleeves). I wouldn't hesitate to try the shorts as a beginner. It's a great basic shorts pattern for boys, and you can even remix it to make girly shorts with this excellent tutorial from Piles of Laundry. How's that for versatility?

Alright, that wraps things up. Sewing boy shorts is fun! So was having this sweet and cooperative model. Not a single mini marshmallow exchanged hands during this photo shoot...it was amazing! Thanks so much for having me, Rachael!

thanks again, Gail!! they look fabulous and i love the extra pocket idea :)