Hello there!
We are thrilled to be part of the Shorts on the Line sewing event.
I knew immediately this would be the motivator I needed to take on today’s project—turning our ever-popular Finch Shorts original sewing pattern into a one-piece Finch Romper.
Most shorts patterns can be modified in a manner similar to what I have done here, but I think our Finch pattern is particularly well-suited for a romper variation due to the pleating at the waistband on the front of the shorts. By foregoing the pleats, the shorts have enough fullness around the entire waistband to gather evenly without any awkward tugging on the fabric.
The halter top shown here is my own design, drafted from scratch. I first considered using a commercially available blouse pattern and modifying its width/hem to be sewn to the shorts, but couldn’t find exactly what I was looking for. Hopefully you’ll find some of my drafting techniques useful for either method. I think you’ll find the end result to be an easy, cute, extra summery shorts variation!
Fabric, Notions and Trim - Based on Size 2T Finch Shorts (My daughter is more like a 3T in shirt size, so the top dimensions below likely reflect that)
¾ yard wide fabric + thread
¾ yard wide ribbon trim (the ribbon should be at least ¾” wide. Mine was 1 ¼” wide.)
½ yard of ½” wide elastic (for the back of the halter and the neck ties)
½- ¾” yard of ¾” wide elastic (for the waistband)
Sew the Shorts
Sew the Finch Shorts as instructed except (1) skip sewing the pleats on the front of the Shorts at the waistband and (2) omit the waistband. Set the shorts aside until after you’ve completed the halter top, below.
Draft the Top Front
The Top is sewn from 3 pieces—Front, Back and Front Facing, each cut on the fold. Easy peasy.
First, determine the length of the finished Top Front—either measure your little one’s torso (from waist to chest) or, as I’ve done here, take the measurement from a similar (RTW) romper. This measurement + ½” will be the “Top Length”. (For my version, this measurement was 9 ½”, though I think it still needed another 1-2” in the body.)
The waist line of the Top Front piece will need to parallel that of the shorts: place the front piece of your shorts pattern (the yellow tracing paper below) on a large piece of paper. Trace the waist line of the shorts onto the paper. Extend the two side seam lines of the shorts up from the waistline at the same angle as the shorts.
The center front of the Top will be placed on the fold, so move the center front line back ½” (this accommodates for the seam allowance of the shorts pattern).
Measuring up from the waist line, mark a point along the center front line that equals the Front Length. Draw a line perpendicular to the center front line at that point to connect the two side lines of the Top.
Carve out an arm hole as shown above. It can be pretty shallow. {I found that some of the test garments I sewed earlier on gaped a little at the armpit so I took some extra fabric out by inserting a ½” dart, also as shown above.}
Measure the outside seam of your Top Front, below the armhole. This measurement + 1” will be the side seam measurement of the Top Back (next step) = Back Length.
Finally, you will need to create the waistband casing below the waistband. Do this by extending the sides below the waist line by 2” and connecting with a line that runs parallel to the waist line.
Draft the Top Back
Begin drafting the Back as you did with the Front: trace the waistband of the back piece of your shorts pattern and extend the side seam by the Back Length determined in the step above above. Maintain the angle of the two sides with that of the pattern piece. Connect the side seam to the center back line so that the line crosses the center back at a right angle.
As with the center front, the center back of the Top Back will be placed on the fold, so move the line back ½” (this accommodates for the seam allowance of the shorts pattern).
Finally, extend the sides below the waist line by 2” to create the waistband casing, as we did above for the Top Front.
Draft the Top Facing
Trace off the top portion of the Top Front piece on another piece of paper so that you capture about a 2” below the armhole and above. You also will cut the Facing on the fold, but shorten its overall width by approx. 4”. As shown below, I folded the center front line of the Top Front pattern piece under 2” before tracing it for the Facing. {Note, the finished width of the facing should equal the width across the child’s chest as measured across at the armpits + 1” for seam allowances. Adjust the width of the Facing as needed to accommodate your child’s measurements.}
Sew No Tie Halter Top Straps
For older girls, tying the halter straps won’t be a problem. For my young daughter, whose every trip to the loo is a frantic, last-minute event, real ties could be catastrophic. By inserting a 3 inch piece of elastic into the tube of the straps just behind the neck, the straps slip over her head while remaining tied.
For each strap, cut a piece of fabric 2” wide by 18” (this will most likely be too long, but it is easier to cut it shorter once sewn than to make it longer).
[1] Sew the strip in half lengthwise (“hotdog bun” style), with right sides together. Turn the tube to the right side and press flat with the seam running down the center of the strap. {Note, the tube will be easier to turn if you trim the seam allowances of the sewn edge to ¼” or less.}
[2] Using a safety pin, guide a 4” piece of elastic into the tube. Secure the free end of the elastic inside the tube at a point about 13” from one end by sewing across the tube. Gather about 4-5” of the fabric tube down toward the sewn end of the elastic. Using a straight pin, mark the point on the strap where there is 4” of (unstretched) elastic. Sew across this point to secure the second elastic end. Work the remaining part of the elastic through to the opening of the tube, remove the pin and trim the elastic as short as you can to the secured spot. Press your strap flat.
Tuck ½” of the end of the strap above the elastic to the inside of the tube and sew across to secure.
Repeat these steps for the second strap.
{Note, if you’d prefer to forgo the elasticized strap, you can follow the above steps but omit the elastic. To make it even easier, you could use ½” ribbon for the straps.}
Sew the Gathering Stitches and Attach Front Facing
[1] Sew two sets of 3 lines of basting stitches across the Top Front. The first set are close the top of the pattern piece and the second set start about 1.5” below the bottom line of the first set (the exact location here is not critical though I’d recommend that you leave at least 1” in between the two sets of stitches). In the photo above, my basting stitches are shown in purple thread to better illustrate the spacing.
[2] Pin the Front Facing to the Top Front at the top corners, then gather all 6 basting lines so that the width of the Top Front equals that of the Front Facing.
[3] Adjust the gathers evenly across the width of the Top, then unpin the Front Facing.
[4] Position the ribbon across the bottom set of gathers, fully hiding them. Be careful to not alter the gathered width of your Top! Sew the ribbon in place along both long edges. Trim any excess ribbon at the sides.
{a} Pin the two halter straps seam facing up and ½” in from the corners of the Top Front. You may want to angle the straps outward slightly (toward the arm holes). {b} Repin the right side of the Front Facing to the right side of the Top Front so that the top and side edges of the two pieces are aligned and the straps are sandwiched in between. Sew around the armhole and top of the pieces, leaving the side seams open. Trim away excess seam allowances (and any extra length of halter straps), in particular at the corners. Flip the Front Facing to the reverse side of the Top Front and press.
Check the length of the straps against the child if possible at this point—if they are too long, as mine were, unpick the stitch line at the straps and pull them through to shorten the necessary amount, then sew again in place.
Here’s what the top will look at this point:
You can topstitch along the top of the Front to help the Facing lie flat in the back and to secure the gathering stitches in place.*
For the remaining steps, treat the Facing and Top Front pieces as one piece unless otherwise noted.
* You can remove the basting stitches on the Top Front now or when you’ve finished the garment. This is a great step to complete in front of the TV!
Sew Top Front to Top Back
With right sides together, pin the Top Front piece to the Top Back piece at the side seams so that the bottoms of the pieces are flush and the Top Back piece extends above the Top Front an additional 1”. Sew the Top Front and Front Back pieces together at the side seams.
Sew the Elastic Casings & Final Assembly
To form the elastic casing on the top of the Top Back (see above), fold over the top edge ½” and press. Fold over the edge another ½”, and press again. Sew along the lower edge of this casing, leaving the ends open through which to thread the elastic later on.
To form the casing for the waistband elastic, fold up ½” of the bottom of the Top to the wrong side and press. Fold the fabric an additional 1.5” and press again. Sew along the top of this casing, leaving a 1” opening in the casing in the Back of the garment. {Note, if the sides of your Top have any amount of flare to them, you’ll find that turning the bottom up 2” may be a bit tricky since you’ll have extra width in the turned up part—just remember that your fully elasticized finished waistband will forgive any fudging you may have to do to sew the casing. Focus on sewing a nice straight line around the top of the casing.}
With right sides are together, insert the raw waistband edge of the shorts into the Top so that the raw edge is flush with the bottom of the casing (see top right photo below). Sew around the entire waistband. This will narrow the elastic waistband casing by ½” so that it is now 1” wide. Give everything a good press, you’re nearly there!
Add Elastic
Measure your child’s waist and add 1” (or more if you want the romper to be a little roomier in the waist). Cut a piece of ¾” wide elastic to this length. Insert the elastic into the waistband casing using the safety pin. Overlap the ends of the elastic then sew together. Sew the opening of the casing closed.
With a safety pin, insert a 12” piece of 1/2” wide elastic into the casing you created on the top of the Top Back piece. Determine how much width you’d like across the back and trim the elastic to that length, making sure to leave ¼” - ½” at both ends for sewing the elastic in place (The back on this garment measures about 8”). Secure both ends of the elastic by sewing the openings closed.
Mission Accomplished!
At this point you can add any additional embellishments you’d like to make—for instance, I added the ribbon bow on the center front of the halter top. I also added ribbon at the side seams for a little additional color, rather than making the standard tabs called for by our original Finch Shorts pattern, secured with a pair of vintage buttons.
We hope you’ll be inspired to modify your own Finch Shorts this summer. There are so many things you can do with this pattern. Kristin of skirt as top will have her review of the shorts pattern later in this series and you can see more ideas on our site by clicking here.
Thanks to Rachael for letting us be a part of this fun blog event.
Happy sewing!
~ Erin of Clever Charlotte
thanks again, Erin (and Carla)!! this romper is super cute and love the tips for the no-tie halter :)
Sew the Finch Shorts as instructed except (1) skip sewing the pleats on the front of the Shorts at the waistband and (2) omit the waistband. Set the shorts aside until after you’ve completed the halter top, below.
Draft the Top Front
The Top is sewn from 3 pieces—Front, Back and Front Facing, each cut on the fold. Easy peasy.
First, determine the length of the finished Top Front—either measure your little one’s torso (from waist to chest) or, as I’ve done here, take the measurement from a similar (RTW) romper. This measurement + ½” will be the “Top Length”. (For my version, this measurement was 9 ½”, though I think it still needed another 1-2” in the body.)
The waist line of the Top Front piece will need to parallel that of the shorts: place the front piece of your shorts pattern (the yellow tracing paper below) on a large piece of paper. Trace the waist line of the shorts onto the paper. Extend the two side seam lines of the shorts up from the waistline at the same angle as the shorts.
The center front of the Top will be placed on the fold, so move the center front line back ½” (this accommodates for the seam allowance of the shorts pattern).
Measuring up from the waist line, mark a point along the center front line that equals the Front Length. Draw a line perpendicular to the center front line at that point to connect the two side lines of the Top.
Carve out an arm hole as shown above. It can be pretty shallow. {I found that some of the test garments I sewed earlier on gaped a little at the armpit so I took some extra fabric out by inserting a ½” dart, also as shown above.}
Measure the outside seam of your Top Front, below the armhole. This measurement + 1” will be the side seam measurement of the Top Back (next step) = Back Length.
Finally, you will need to create the waistband casing below the waistband. Do this by extending the sides below the waist line by 2” and connecting with a line that runs parallel to the waist line.
Draft the Top Back
Begin drafting the Back as you did with the Front: trace the waistband of the back piece of your shorts pattern and extend the side seam by the Back Length determined in the step above above. Maintain the angle of the two sides with that of the pattern piece. Connect the side seam to the center back line so that the line crosses the center back at a right angle.
As with the center front, the center back of the Top Back will be placed on the fold, so move the line back ½” (this accommodates for the seam allowance of the shorts pattern).
Finally, extend the sides below the waist line by 2” to create the waistband casing, as we did above for the Top Front.
Draft the Top Facing
Trace off the top portion of the Top Front piece on another piece of paper so that you capture about a 2” below the armhole and above. You also will cut the Facing on the fold, but shorten its overall width by approx. 4”. As shown below, I folded the center front line of the Top Front pattern piece under 2” before tracing it for the Facing. {Note, the finished width of the facing should equal the width across the child’s chest as measured across at the armpits + 1” for seam allowances. Adjust the width of the Facing as needed to accommodate your child’s measurements.}
For older girls, tying the halter straps won’t be a problem. For my young daughter, whose every trip to the loo is a frantic, last-minute event, real ties could be catastrophic. By inserting a 3 inch piece of elastic into the tube of the straps just behind the neck, the straps slip over her head while remaining tied.
For each strap, cut a piece of fabric 2” wide by 18” (this will most likely be too long, but it is easier to cut it shorter once sewn than to make it longer).
[1] Sew the strip in half lengthwise (“hotdog bun” style), with right sides together. Turn the tube to the right side and press flat with the seam running down the center of the strap. {Note, the tube will be easier to turn if you trim the seam allowances of the sewn edge to ¼” or less.}
[2] Using a safety pin, guide a 4” piece of elastic into the tube. Secure the free end of the elastic inside the tube at a point about 13” from one end by sewing across the tube. Gather about 4-5” of the fabric tube down toward the sewn end of the elastic. Using a straight pin, mark the point on the strap where there is 4” of (unstretched) elastic. Sew across this point to secure the second elastic end. Work the remaining part of the elastic through to the opening of the tube, remove the pin and trim the elastic as short as you can to the secured spot. Press your strap flat.
Tuck ½” of the end of the strap above the elastic to the inside of the tube and sew across to secure.
Repeat these steps for the second strap.
{Note, if you’d prefer to forgo the elasticized strap, you can follow the above steps but omit the elastic. To make it even easier, you could use ½” ribbon for the straps.}
Sew the Gathering Stitches and Attach Front Facing
[1] Sew two sets of 3 lines of basting stitches across the Top Front. The first set are close the top of the pattern piece and the second set start about 1.5” below the bottom line of the first set (the exact location here is not critical though I’d recommend that you leave at least 1” in between the two sets of stitches). In the photo above, my basting stitches are shown in purple thread to better illustrate the spacing.
[2] Pin the Front Facing to the Top Front at the top corners, then gather all 6 basting lines so that the width of the Top Front equals that of the Front Facing.
[3] Adjust the gathers evenly across the width of the Top, then unpin the Front Facing.
[4] Position the ribbon across the bottom set of gathers, fully hiding them. Be careful to not alter the gathered width of your Top! Sew the ribbon in place along both long edges. Trim any excess ribbon at the sides.
{a} Pin the two halter straps seam facing up and ½” in from the corners of the Top Front. You may want to angle the straps outward slightly (toward the arm holes). {b} Repin the right side of the Front Facing to the right side of the Top Front so that the top and side edges of the two pieces are aligned and the straps are sandwiched in between. Sew around the armhole and top of the pieces, leaving the side seams open. Trim away excess seam allowances (and any extra length of halter straps), in particular at the corners. Flip the Front Facing to the reverse side of the Top Front and press.
Check the length of the straps against the child if possible at this point—if they are too long, as mine were, unpick the stitch line at the straps and pull them through to shorten the necessary amount, then sew again in place.
Here’s what the top will look at this point:
You can topstitch along the top of the Front to help the Facing lie flat in the back and to secure the gathering stitches in place.*
For the remaining steps, treat the Facing and Top Front pieces as one piece unless otherwise noted.
* You can remove the basting stitches on the Top Front now or when you’ve finished the garment. This is a great step to complete in front of the TV!
Sew Top Front to Top Back
With right sides together, pin the Top Front piece to the Top Back piece at the side seams so that the bottoms of the pieces are flush and the Top Back piece extends above the Top Front an additional 1”. Sew the Top Front and Front Back pieces together at the side seams.
Sew the Elastic Casings & Final Assembly
To form the elastic casing on the top of the Top Back (see above), fold over the top edge ½” and press. Fold over the edge another ½”, and press again. Sew along the lower edge of this casing, leaving the ends open through which to thread the elastic later on.
To form the casing for the waistband elastic, fold up ½” of the bottom of the Top to the wrong side and press. Fold the fabric an additional 1.5” and press again. Sew along the top of this casing, leaving a 1” opening in the casing in the Back of the garment. {Note, if the sides of your Top have any amount of flare to them, you’ll find that turning the bottom up 2” may be a bit tricky since you’ll have extra width in the turned up part—just remember that your fully elasticized finished waistband will forgive any fudging you may have to do to sew the casing. Focus on sewing a nice straight line around the top of the casing.}
With right sides are together, insert the raw waistband edge of the shorts into the Top so that the raw edge is flush with the bottom of the casing (see top right photo below). Sew around the entire waistband. This will narrow the elastic waistband casing by ½” so that it is now 1” wide. Give everything a good press, you’re nearly there!
Add Elastic
Measure your child’s waist and add 1” (or more if you want the romper to be a little roomier in the waist). Cut a piece of ¾” wide elastic to this length. Insert the elastic into the waistband casing using the safety pin. Overlap the ends of the elastic then sew together. Sew the opening of the casing closed.
With a safety pin, insert a 12” piece of 1/2” wide elastic into the casing you created on the top of the Top Back piece. Determine how much width you’d like across the back and trim the elastic to that length, making sure to leave ¼” - ½” at both ends for sewing the elastic in place (The back on this garment measures about 8”). Secure both ends of the elastic by sewing the openings closed.
Mission Accomplished!
At this point you can add any additional embellishments you’d like to make—for instance, I added the ribbon bow on the center front of the halter top. I also added ribbon at the side seams for a little additional color, rather than making the standard tabs called for by our original Finch Shorts pattern, secured with a pair of vintage buttons.
We hope you’ll be inspired to modify your own Finch Shorts this summer. There are so many things you can do with this pattern. Kristin of skirt as top will have her review of the shorts pattern later in this series and you can see more ideas on our site by clicking here.
Thanks to Rachael for letting us be a part of this fun blog event.
Happy sewing!
~ Erin of Clever Charlotte
thanks again, Erin (and Carla)!! this romper is super cute and love the tips for the no-tie halter :)
CUTE, erin! i'm getting started on my finch shorts and i'm very excited. thanks for the romper tips!
ReplyDeleteThis is so adorable! I love the ribbon details and I really like the tip for the no-tie straps!
ReplyDeleteEeeep,this is so cute!
ReplyDeleteI love me a romper, what a great addition to those adorable shorts! Thanks so much for the tutorial!
ReplyDeleteGorgeous! Love the simplicity of the linen with the pretty ribbon trims!
ReplyDeleteThanks SO MUCH for sharing how to make this. It's just gorgeous and I love the little trimming details you added. Beautiful!
ReplyDelete